Jim Whittaker (1929-2026) was pioneering figure in outdoor recreation and Pacific Northwest history. The Seattle-born mountaineer innovator became the first American to summit Mount Everest, on May 1, 1963, alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu. His achievement--accomplished in an era before modern climbing infrastructure—captured national attention and helped define a generation of exploration. He later described the ascent as a “now-or-never” moment, reflecting the determination and ingenuity that shaped his life and career.

Beyond the summit, Whittaker played a transformative role in Seattle’s outdoor culture. As REI’s first full-time employee and later CEO, and co-founder of Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. with his twin brother Lou, he helped build institutions that made outdoor adventure more accessible while shaping the region’s identity as a hub for recreation and innovation.

In this image, Jim Whittaker (front) leads a group of eleven climbers with disabilities up Mount Rainier as part of Project Pelion. Nine of the climbers made it to the summit on July 3, 1981, where they planted two flags, one celebrating the International Year of the Handicapped.